STRETCHING A CANVAS- 2

Whenever you are making a canvas that is more than 30" in any direction you should add braces to keep it from warping under the tension of the stretched canvas. I start by ripping 1/2"- 3/4" strips from a 2"x4" and then cutting notches at the centers of each so they fit together. I drill pilot holes on the ends at an angle for a 1" screw to join them to the inside edge of the stretcher bars and I counter sink the holes so the edge of the screw is less likely to split the wood when I screw them snug. I then glue them with wood glue and clamp them in the center and immediately glue and screw them to the sides after measuring the centers of the stretchers so the are straight. It's a bit over the top but gives a very stable frame for the canvas and this one's 54"x42" so I like the extra stability. Notice that I place a thick magazine under the ends when I set them to give them uniform depth. You want them to be away from where the canvas will be so they don't touch the canvas when you paint and still give room for where a picture hanger will go on the wall. I usually try and get them near the middle of the depth of the 2"x4".

Now it's time to stretch the canvas. First lay it out smooth on a table and lay the stretcher bar assembly over it with the beveled side down against the canvas. Wrap the middle of one edge around the stretcher and place three staples through the canvas. I find 3/8" staples work best. Go to the other side and stretch the canvas taught with wide canvas pliers and staple it down. Move to the end and do the same. The canvas will buckle slightly showing a diamond pattern. Continue to move back and forth across the canvas and end to end placing staples about every 1-1/2" or 2" until you get about 4" from the corners. I use a small tack hammer as I go to secure the staples but you may not need to if your stapler is strong enough to drive the staples all the way in.

Now it's time to finish the corners. I like the folds to be on the top and bottom edge so they don't show from the side on gallery wrapped canvases. Begin by pinching a 45 degree fold and hold that down while you make another that folds right over that one. I usually grab that bigger fold and stretch it tight with the pliers before I staple it all down securely. This makes a very smooth and beautiful corner.
Now all that's left is to apply two or three coats of gesso to the complete surface. I start on the back and cover the staples with gesso right to the edge of the canvas. This prevents the canvas edges from unraveling and also glues the staples in nicely. I've found that starting the front surface in the middle and using small circular motions with the brush as you work your way to the outer edges looks best. You can sand lightly with 300 grit sandpaper between coats and after the final coat for a smoother surface. Good luck and enjoy the pride in making a high quality stretched canvas that is nicer than you can buy ready-made for a lot less money.